Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Moonscapes and Sawtooths: Just Another Day in Idaho

Just returned from a nice four-day getaway to central Idaho. Our first destination was Craters of the Moon National Monument. Two summers ago, we had stopped in for a short visit and vowed to return someday and spend more time.

The monument is located in the Snake River Plain, which was created by a series of cataclysmic caldera-forming, super eruptions which started about 15 million years ago. In fact, the hotspot that created these eruptions is now located under the Yellowstone Caldera in Yellowstone National Park, due to the tectonic plate's drift that is moving north at the same rate that our fingernails grow...about 2 inches a year. Over the past 15,000 years, a series of Hawaiian-style eruptions filled in most of the calderas and created a surreal landscape of volcanic tubes, cinder cones, and a variety of lava flow formations. When we visited without the deep snow, we had the feeling of walking in an immense gas-fired BBQ grill!

The closest town for lodging is Arco, where we stayed for two nights. It's a town I wouldn't recommend to visit for its own sake, unless you want to stay in the first town in the world to be powered by its own nuclear reactor. In fact, the old reactor is now a museum and on the register of historic places. Didn't stop as it was closed for the winter.

Our first day at Craters, we joined a Meetup Group from Boise for a ranger-led snowshoe hike. What a nice group of people. Turns out they were staying in our motel, and they invited us over that night for a potluck dinner. (You can see photos of the day at their website: http://www.meetup.com/Boise-Trail-Heads/ and click on "past trips."

The day was snowy and windy, and the snow-covered lava formations gave a surreal look to the landscape. The hike was topped off with a trek to the top of one of the volcanoes.

Our plan for the next day at Craters was to cross country ski on the 7-mile groomed trail that in the summer is a road that takes you through the park. But the wind was fierce--too windy for me. However, Jim persevered and did the entire loop while I hung out in the visitor center and watched a movie that said the entire area is overdue for another lava-forming event. (The eruptions occur about every 2000 years, and guess what? That was 2000 years ago!)

After Craters, we drove through Ketchem (ie sun Valley), Idaho, to Stanley, Idaho, which has the frequent distinction of being the coldest spot in the Continental U.S. It's also known as the Gateway to the Sawthooth Mountains, a spectacular rocky-cragged range that visually lives up to its name. We love Stanley. During the summer, the place is busy with white water rafters taking off for trips down the Salmon River, as well as mountain bikers and hikers/backpackers. However, in the winter, lots of places close down and the population goes down to around 100. The town even has its own school--grades 1-9 with just 8 students.

What we like most about Stanley is that the residents haven't sold out to the big resort conglomerates, so it's kept that rustic mountain-town feel. As far as we could tell, all the businesses are locally owned. We stayed at one of the few motels open, The Sawtooth Motel. Loved it. A few years ago, the owners bought and restored the lodge and restaurant, which was built in the early 1930s. While our room had simple furnishings (no TV), we slept under a comfy colorful quilt and had a great view of the sunset over the Sawtooths.

We spent one full day in the area, cross country skiing a groomed area not open to snowmobilers. Although the temp hovered in the low 20s, we topped off our day with a soak in a natural hot spring. In fact, this hot spring has its own hot tub, which was really the bottom half of an ocean buoy that some enterprising soul(s) hauled in. A pipe running from the spring funneled the water into the "tub" and when it overflowed, a valve on the bottom could be opened to drain some of the excess water. When the water got too hot (110 degrees maybe?), two buckets could be used to scoop up water from the icy Salmon River and pour into the tub to lower the temperature ...for a while. The soak was wonderful but of course, getting out and changing into dry clothes is the real challenge.

We took the long drive back to Jackson via the scenic St. Rt. 75 from Stanley to Challis, then dropping back down to Arco and Jackson. After Arco, the roads got really trecherous, with strong winds and whiteout conditions. Jim did great, relying on his 20+ years of professional driving experience to get us back safely.

We are now back in Jackson, winding down our third winter here. We should get a few more days of skiing in before heading back to Ohio in about a week. See you then!

Arco's Claim to Fame


Lava-Formation in Craters of the Moon


Jim and the Boise Snowshoe Meetup Group


Connie Showshoeing with Lava Cone in Background


The Sawtooth Hotel


Sawtooth Hotel's Dining Room--Real Cozy


Sawtooth Scene from Cross Country Ski Trail


Hot-tubing Along the Salmon River

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Winter in Wyoming 2011

Arrived in Victor, Idaho, (a stone's throw over Teton Pass from Jackson, Wyoming) on January 13 after a thankfully uneventful three-day drive from Ohio. This winter we have been fortunate to have several nice housing options, the first being a sweet condo owned by friends Cheri and Tom Stevens. They graciously offered the use of their condo until they arrive from upstate New York, which was yesterday.

Last week, we transitioned to Jackson, where we are house sitting next door to Hannah for the month of February. We really enjoy being close by, and cooking dinners together almost every night. Hannah’s turned into quite the cook (but not due to my influence!). And, her emphasis on healthy eating and organic foods is making us more aware of what we’re putting in our mouths as well as our eating patterns. Hope we can carry it on when we leave here.

This winter has proven to be colder and snowier than last year, which I understand Ohio experienced as well. Our first day at Grand Targhee came with a foot of fluffy powder. Matt fixed Jim up with some more mellow skis, with the idea that this year he will behave himself and stay on the groomers and hopefully avoid blowing out his other knee!

Matt also fixed me up with another set of skis that are "less aggressive," which is a nice way of saying they are more geared for my level of skiing. They are lighter and more flexible, so turns and edging should be easier. However, I made the mistake of requesting they be tuned and waxed before I tried them out. Little did I know that this would cause them to be much faster. Combine that with the unusually icy conditions my first time on those skis, and it was a crazy run down. Not a pretty sight, but I did manage to get down in one piece.

The colder temps and deep snow offer some great cross country ski conditions as well. One outing was at Harriman State Park, which is known for the Trumpeter Swans that winter over there every year. This is due to the fact that the Clark Fork River, fed by hot springs, stays open all winter.

We have had a cow moose and her calf hanging out for several days in the housing complex where we're staying. They like nibbling on the young trees and bushes. Both are not very big so the mom must be young. We became quite attached to them. But then, yesterday, driving back from Targhee, we drove by a dead moose that had been hit by a vehicle about 5 miles from our place. It was a small one. Sure hope it wasn't one of our guys.

I am including several photos highlighting our time here. We plan on heading back to Ohio sometime during the first week of March.

The Grand, Middle, and South Teton on drive up to Grand Targhee Ski Resort




Trumpter Swans at Harriman State Park




Momma moose and her yearling calf hanging out around our place



View of the Tetons from bike path near Hannah's


Sunrise as seen from our sliding glass doors


Sunset over the Tetons