On the Trail of Lewis and Clark

Now that the weather has improved, with more sun and warmer temps, we’ve been able to get out more and explore the area’s mountains and trails.

One day, we took a drive along route 12, south of Missoula, called the Lolo Trail, the same trail that the Lewis and Clark expedition took over the Bitterroot Mountains, which nearly did them in when they encountered early deep snow, hunger, and dangerous mountain terrain. They were even reduced to eating a few of their colts in order to survive.

Of course, our trip didn't involve such hardship. Instead, we enjoyed a warm soak in the Jerry Johnson hot springs, one of the many noncommercial hotsprings that dot the area. Getting there required a 1 ½ mile hike along the Lochsa River. Seeing that the day was gray and rainy, soaking in the natural hotsprings felt really good. The hotsprings include three pools and on the way in, we encountered a young couple enjoying the first one “au naturale,” apparently not an usual sight according to the locals. As you can see in the picture, we didn’t feel comfortable exposing bodies in which gravity has taken a heavy toll over the years.

That day, we also held true to our eternal quest to seek out the big trees, which we found at the DeVoto Memorial Cedar Grove. Named for Bernard DeVoto, a conservationist and Lewis and Clark historian, the grove features beautiful western red cedars where DeVoto edited the Lewis and Clark journals. These massive trees can live up to 3,000 years.

Another activity that we’re enjoying is fishing in the mountain lakes, many of which require a long (1 to 2 hour drive!) over unpaved Forest Service roads. Since we don’t have a 4-wheel drive, high-clearance vehicle, this often requires my getting out and throwing rocks over to side of the road in order to continue on.

Surveyor Lake also involved hiking 2 miles up a steep and dense, unmaintained trail. The entire time I was worried about bears, so Jim and I drew on our repertoire of trail songs (this time, an endless loop of improvised refrains from “She’ll be coming 'round the mountain") so as not to surprise an unsuspecting bear. But once we got to the lake, we felt better and spent the afternoon trying to hook some brook trout, to no avail. About the only thing we hooked was our tangled fishing line, and spent the majority of time trying to get untangled, apparently a major component of alpine fishing.

Two sister lakes we fished, Diamond and Cliff Lakes, were at higher elevation and still had ice chunks floating on the surface. Although we didn’t catch any fish, we were treated to the sight of an osprey swooping down and catching one in its talons. If just one fish were to be caught that day, I’m glad it was the osprey's.

Jim's rehab is progressing well, and hiking seems to really help. We've taken two nice hikes, one an 8-mile round trip up to Ch-paa-qn peak, at around 8,000 feet, the highest peak in the Ninemile Ranger District, and another along Kootenai Creek in the Bitterroots. We also enjoy a little 1 1/2 mile nature trail right by our RV site where we walk the dog every night.

Yesterday, everyone was in a twitter as a grizzly boar was sighted just two miles from here, a rare sighting for this area. So now, we carry our bear spray with us whenever we are out hiking.

Work at the Visitor Center is pretty laid back, and we have time to spend visiting with the resident mules and horses. One of the "retired" mules, Sue Ellen, who is an amazing 37 years old, has won our hearts, and we bring her a carrot everyday we "work."

Well, all for now. Hope everyone is having a great summer.

Western Red Cedars in the Devoto Grove


Connie soaking in one of the Jerry Johnson hot spring pools


An alpine lake with clouds


Cliff Lake


Sue Ellen