To fulfill Jim’s never-ending, yet unfulfilled, quest for a fresh trout dinner, our first day in Glacier was spent in the Two Medicine area. While I enjoyed walking Lacey around the campground and enjoying the views from the picnic area , Jim and David hiked in about a mile to wet their lines in the lake. But not even a nibble did they enjoy. Nevertheless, the area’s scenery was reward enough for their effort.
On Tuesday, we took the Jammer Red Bus Tour in the park. The vintage red buses were built in the 1930s, and were the primary way tourists visited the park. Their unique name comes from the old days when drivers could be heard "jammin" on the gears of the bright red buses as they drove up and down the steep mountain grades. The vehicles run on both gasoline and propane and include canvas tops that are rolled back. While this feature allows spectacular views of the peaks and cliffs towering over your head, it also provides quite a cold ride. Ours was the “Crown of the Continent Tour,” which took us from the park’s west side, up the precipitous Going- to-the-Sun-Road to Logan Pass, which sits on the continental divide. After a brief stop there, we headed down the park’s eastern side to St. Mary’s and Many Glacier.
While The tour was nice, I would categorize it as a “Been There, Done That” experience. My biggest gripe is that, there was no time to spend at any one spot. For example, at Many Glacier, there was only time to have lunch (which was tasty) at the historic lodge, but no time to sit on the lodge’s expansive porch and enjoy the magnificent views of Swiftcurrent lake and the surrounding lofty peaks. The ride also was a real tease for hiking: I really wanted to get out and hike some of the places we visited.
On our way back to Ninemeile on Wednesday, we stopped at Garnet Ghost town. While Montana is known for its many ghost towns, Garnet is one of the more isolated and non-commercial. In fact, the management approach of the Bureau of Land Management is to preserve what’s there, not restore. Compared to some of the restored historical sites we’ve visited, I think this approach provides a more authentic experience. The town was founded in the late 1800s after a gold strike and by 1898, over 1,500 people lived there. But once the gold, silver, and copper played out, only 150 people remained by 1905. By the end of WW1, it was pretty much abandoned. For those who really want a surreal experience, one of the cabins is available for nightly rental.
After David left, we had one more adventure. The Ninemeile Ranger District manages a fire look out tower that sits atop 7,349 foot Stark Mountain. For the last 39 summers, the tower has been “manned” by 83 year-old Virginia Vincent. She’s quite the character. Never married and I think never held a full-time traditional job. So, last Monday, we decided to drive the 15 miles up to the tower. We knew it would be a rough road, and in fact, I had to get out and throw larger rocks off to the side of the road several times. We had lunch at the tower, after which Virginia showed us around and how to use the Osborne Fire Finder, a type of alidade used to give a directional bearing of a fire to fire crews. She also pointed out a hike to another peak that she had taken (by herself of course) the night before.
After the hike, we proceeded back down the road and ended up in the small town Superior, where we usually stop for their delicious huckleberry ice cream cones. Upon coming out of the shop, we discovered a pool of oil under the car. Apparently, we hadn’t completely cleared every knarley rock on the road. Fortunately, we were able to make an appointment at a nearby mechanic (one of only two in the town), and rent a room in the town’s only motel. It’s a wonder that we made it back to town without blowing up the engine. I can’t image what we would have done if the oil pan had broken while we were way up on that mountain road. It would have been one heck of a long hike back to town.
Only five weeks left for our volunteer post. So much to do and see, so little time!
Going-to-the-Sun-Road
A Scene in Glacier
Stop at Many Glacier Hotel
Garnet Ghost Town
Mr. Davis's general store
A Room in Mrs. Wells's Hotel included a fainting couch for the ladies
Mrs. Wells's hotel
Virginia showing us the Osbourne fire finder
Stark Mountain Lookout Tower as viewed from a nearby peak
Hi Connie - Scary about the oil leak. Glad all turned out ok. We are going to Seattle and then to the Columbia River Gorge and then Willamette Valley and Portland. I know our trip will not have the adventure and unknowns of yours, but we'll hopefully have a good time. Take care - love reading your adventures!
ReplyDelete